Lardos to Moni Ipseni and onto Glystra Beach ~ Griffmonsters Great Rhodes Walks

A 7 mile walk up to the working monastery Ipseni then onto Glystra Beach

Moni Ipseni is a working female monastery in the hills above Lardos. This really is a journey into another world and something well worth the pilgrimage. The return is along tracks through the forest which then leads down to Glystra beach. A very rewarding walk.

Lardos to Moni Ipseni and onto Glystra Beach - Essential Information

Walk Statistics:

Start location: Lardos
End location: Glystra
Distance: km ( miles)
Total Gain: metre ( ft)
Total Descent: metre ( ft)
Min Height: metre ( ft)
Max Height: metre ( ft)
Walk Time:
Walk type: Linear
Walk Grade: Moderate
Terrain: Road walking to the monastery, dirt track to Glystra beach

Maps:

The following maps and services can assist in navigating this route. There are links to printed maps and links to downloadable GPX route data for importing into navigational software and apps.

GPX Route File

Transport:

Details of public transport that is required for the walk

Rhodes Public Transport - Bus Service

Service Details: Pefkos to Rhodes Town - Rhodes Public bus service from calling at Glystra Beach, Lardos and Pefkos.
Timetable: http://www.ando.gr/upload/files/eot/BUS.pdf

Route Verification Details

Date of Walk: 2017-10-10
Walk Time: 09:30 to 13:30
Walkers: Griffmonster, Kat
Weather Conditions: Bright sunshine

Walk Notes

You will get lost!. Those were the words from the barman at Memories bar in Lardos who served our coffee before starting our walk to Moni Ipseni. He had inquired of our days expeditions and on stating that we were attempting to visit Moni Ipseni and then continuing onto Gystra Beach he had confidently stated You will get lost qualifying the statement with the fact that he had grew up in the area and knew how difficult it was to navigate off the beaten track through the hills.

We had a couple of options. A more adventurous walk following a footpath beyond the monastery and circling round to Gystra or to return down the road and follow forest tracks through to Glystra. Either way, the man declared You will get lost. He told us how he would get lost as a kid on the footpaths and tracks up there, with so many intersections and little in the way of landmarks other than the hills themselves. You have to know exactly where you are going or you will be lost in the wilderness for days or never be found again he assured us.

I demonstrated to him that the 21st century had given us GPS tracking on the phone and therefore we would not get lost but he was insistent that we would. Eventually, as we prepared to leave I pacified his concern saying that we would defer to the footpath route and use the tracks. Always turn left he advised, but then reiterated, you will still get lost. We assured him that we would return for another coffee the next morning.

It is true, as emphasized on many of these walks plus also on the Maps and Navigation page that exploring the wilds on Rhodes is not an easy affair. We have got lost, followed the wrong track and emerged at places other than what was planned. But the rule is to always note the route one has followed and allow plenty of time in case things don't quite work out and need to return back the same way. But for this walk a GPS app on a mobile phone provided the much needed confidence that we would not get lost.

The Moni Ipseni is a working female monastery, or nunnery, or convent whichever one deems to be the correct terminology, located in the hills above Lardos. There is a road that leads up to it with signs pointing the general direction, which makes it is easy to navigate there. The road passes a floodlit basketball ground and a football ground and several small churches and chapels along the route. The first chapel, where a roadside sign declares St Nikolas Church, sits behind wire fences in an island between two tracks. One can view the building but locked gates prevent access. The next chapel is more rewarding, the Monastery of the Apostle Philip sits within the confines of a well presented stone wall and an arched gate, that is also the bell tower. The gate is unlocked as is the chapel that sits centrally in the courtyard. The interior of the chapel is a feast for ones eyes and contains many frescos of the Apostles across the walls and roof. It is a beautiful and peaceful place and well worthy of taking time out to admire it.

From here, the road slowly starts to climb as it heads into the hills. There is a bend in the road at the Holy Cross Church, which is spelt out as holly on its accompanying sign (ιερος ηδος τιωιοψ ςτδψροψ). The gates are locked here so it is another viewing from the perimeter wall. This church is a key landmark for the return journey as the track down the side of this church leads through to Glystra.

We continue up the road, heading higher and higher into the hills with the views getting better with each twist and turn of the road. These hills are covered in trees, although somewhat sparse in sections, providing plenty of fine views. There are many fallen or cut trunks, whether this is by natural causes, fire or deliberate timber felling is unknown.

Eventually one encounters Moni Ipseni. A grand complex of buildings, above which is a cross placed high on a hill behind. A large chapel was currently under construction at the entrance to the monastery, a magnificent two storey building thhat would surely be the pride of the monastery in years to come. Local folklore states that the monastery was built by Meletios in the 19th century after a vision of the Virgin Mary led him to discover buried treasure which paid for its construction. This fine palace that is now being built begs the pondering mind with a question that maybe another vision had resulted in more discovered treasure.

Having come this far one cannot turn down the climb to the cross. A stepped path zig-zags up the steep hillside. It is a fair climb but once one is at the top the effort is well rewarded with some spectacular views across to the coast. Once this pilgrimage has been completed one is ready to visit the monastery.

It must be remembered that a modicum of respect is required for entering such holy working establishments. In particular women should refrain from wearing trousers and both sexes should not wear shorts. Having walked up from Lardos this is not particularly practical and therefore a basket of wrap-around skirts is placed by the door for use by visitors and pilgrims alike. Just wrap one of these over ones trousers and this shows the respect deserved. Your politeness will be rewarded with a very satisfying glass of fruit juice provided by the nuns.

I am uncertain of the code of conduct with regards to photography and certainly there were visitors taking discreet photos of the monastery exterior and courtyard with no sign of indignation from the nuns. It is a mark of respect to refrain from such actions if visiting the church where people are praying or indeed, as is the case here, the where the monastic building contains ancient and holy relics. If in any doubt, the polite thing to do is ask.

With the satisfaction of accomplishing the visit to Moni Ipseni, it is time to return back down the mountain. The route simply follows the road back to the Holy Cross Church. From here we head into the uncharted territory that the Memories barman had predicted would result in us getting horribly lost. The route is a well worn track through the forest providing some welcome shade from the sun. The path heads down into a valley then steeply climbs back out. The barman had said to keep turning left but this is not the route taken here. The first left does take one down the mountain in a somewhat convoluted way. However it is better to stick to the main track and continue until it comes to a rise to be presented with tracks going off in all directions. At this point keep veering around to the left on the main track which soon starts to descend. Really this was not particularly difficult to find and with the use of the ViewRanger app on ones phone was simple to follow.

Glystra beach is a secluded sandy cove, backed by a shrubs and bushes and popular with the tourists who seem to drive their hire cars to this location in their multitudes. It has a friendly little Kantina which serves food and drinks from a customised lorry and there are plenty of seats and shade for consuming ones purchases. The bus stops at the road down to the beach so no car is really needed to get here. After a pleasing walk through the hills it was satisfying to arrive at this beach and sit down for some food whilst slowly drinking a beer and musing over the blue skies and blue seas.

The following day, we did return to Memories bar as promised and proudly declared that we had not got lost on our expedition to Moni Ipseni. I am not sure whether the barman was impressed, relieved or just thought us as barking mad. The next visit we may attempt something a little more adventurous.

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Glystra beach

Directions

There is a small road that leads up to Moni Ipseni from Lardos. The track through to Glystra Beach branches off at the Holy Cross church. This route can be found on the ViewRanger app.

Leave Lardos walking out on the south westerly road. This means leaving the square, walking past the Kavos Taverna on ones left and the supermarket on the right. The road soon comes to the end of the houses and then crosses a bridge and bends around to the left. Keep to the road until there is a junction on the right with a blue roadsign pointing to MONASTERY IPSENI. Take this road, turning almost back on oneself as it leads off towards the hills. It passes a basketball ground on the left and football ground on the right. Keep to this road for some 2km until it turns sharp right by the Holy Cross Church which is on the left as the road bends.

Make a note of this church as the track that leads straight ahead from the road is the return route. Continue along the asphalt road as it ascends into the hills. It twists and bends for 1.5 km until it reaches Moni Ipseni which is a whole complex of buildings. There is a large Chapel (still under construction in October 2017), with the monastery buildings just beyond. Straight ahead there is a footpath up the steep hill to the cross overlooking the entire site.

Return down the same road to the holy Cross church and turn right onto the track. Follow the track into the woodland. It descends down to a valley then steeply climb back out. Keep to this main track ignoring all other tracks which branch both to the left and right. After 2km from the church the track rises up to a junction of several tracks going off in all directions. Keep veering around to the left and the track will start to descend. This soon passes a school and the track becomes an asphalt road. This continues down the hill until it meets the main road. Cross straight over and turn left at the first junction. Follow this around to where it meets the main road again. The bus stop is located either side of the main road at this junction. For the beach and taverna continue ahead for 250m, ignoring the main road.

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Panoramic view of Moni Ipseni

Refreshments

Memories bar View in Google Map

Address: Memories bar
Website: https://www.facebook.com/memoriesbar85/

Lively bar on the main square in Lardos. Friendly and in such a position one can just sit and watch the world go by. Used by both locals and tourists alike

Review

Memories bar is great for just watching the world go by. It faces the square and is the centre of all that is happening in the village.

Kantina Glystra View in Google Map

Address: Kantina Glystra

Friendly little Kantina run by a couple of ladies from out of the back of a customised lorry. There is a shaded area of tables and chairs with views across the beach. They do serve the locally brewed Zythos beer here, admittedly in bottles but always worth asking for.

Review

Gyros and beer. What an excellent way to relax after a rewarding walk and so pleasing to have the local beer Zythos.

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On the left Moni Ipseni bell tower ; On the right Holy Cross above Moni Ipseni

Features

Moni IpseniView in Google Map

The Greek name for this monastic establishment is Μονη Παναγιας Υψενης which translates to the latinised alphabet as Moni Panayias Ipsenis where the last name is sometime spelt Ipseni, other times Ypseni. The monastery sits in the hills above the village of Lardos on the south eastern side of Rhodes is a working functional convent where 15 dedicated sisters live a simple yet fulfilling, self-sufficient existence, growing their own vegetables and tending their own vineyards and olive groves. In addition they also have skills in hagiography (which is the term to describe the recording the biographic details of Saints), sewing, decoration of images on wood, samples of which are sold in a small shop to visitors and pilgrims.

The derivation of the name Ipseni is uncertain. Using the spelling ypseni, translated into English it has the meaning of height which leads some to suggest that this is merely a description of the monastery's location, high up in the hills. Others have suggested that it may be a corruption of the word gypseni and qualify this with the fact that there are high amounts of the mineral gysum in the area. Having said that, it would appear a literal translation of gypseni is sticky.

The current convent was established by the Metropolitan of New Zealand, Amphilochios Tsoukos although I have yet to find a specific date when this occurred. The monastery itself is said to have been founded in the early 19th century although a commemorative stone at the entrance of the Church indicates that it was constructed in 1855. Either way the founder of the present monastery was Osios Meletios who was a born in Lardos in the late 18th century and was baptised with the name of Emmanouil. His father was a shepherd and he grew up tending the family flock which provided him with plenty of time of solitude where he would reflect and pray. The tale of how he came to found the monastery is certainly interesting and probably embellished by local folklore but is nonetheless worth reading and contemplating over. It is said that during one evening, as he prayed, such as he always did in quiet solitude away from the village, a bright shaft of light shone down from the heavens to the earth. In wonderment of the spectacle he went to the place where the light was hitting the ground, and there he found, to his amazement, an Icon of the Holy Theotokos, which is an image of Mary, mother of God, or as we in the UK would better know her as the Virgin Mary.

On subsequent evenings his solitary prayer vigils were accompanied by visions of the Holy Theotokos, requesting that he build a church in her name and rebuild a monastery on the site where he had discovered the icon. This would indicate that there was indeed an older building on the site and substantiates the claims of an earlier monastery. It would have been quite a task for a humble man of little financial means to fund such a major building project, but the vision addressed this issue by pointing to a place on the ground where she admonished Meletios to dig. This he did and to his surprise he soon came upon a bounty of buried treasure, ample enough to pay for such a construction.

A church was duly built and Meletios honoured the revelation by housing the icon of the Holy Theotokos in the church. He also enlisted himself as a monk, took on the name of Meletios and soon acquired a reputation for his ascetic life, his enduring charity and ceaseless hospitality. It is said that he performed cures, miracles some would say, as well as took confessionals and gave religious instruction to the local villagers. He would also cast out demons from those possessed and gave refuge to those who were persecuted by the occupying Ottoman overlords.

There is also a local story of how, returning to the monastery from Lardos one evening, he came upon the river in full flood with no way to cross. The shepherds who witnessed this said he made the sign of the Cross over the waters and then proceeded to walk across the torrent without getting wet. He is said to have continued his journey to the monastery through the dark with a heavenly light guiding his way.

His life came to an end after he became the victim of slander, the Turkish occupiers accusing him of being the father of a child by a local girl with mental illness. He was ordered to appear before the Metropolitan Archbishop of Rhodes and during this summons, whilst pleading his innocence, he died. It is said that his innocence was revealed when his body was removed of all its apparel ready for the burial. Some time later the grave was reopened for unspecified reasons but probably to seek his relics for the monastery, and despite the duration over which he had been buried, an intense fragrance filled the air which was said to demonstrate his holiness. He was not canonized until November 27th 2013 when the Holy Synod of the Ecumenical Patriarchate performed the rite for the first time since Nectarios of Aegina was canonized in 1961. They also set his Saints day as 12th February and on this date the monastery celebrates its founder.

His relics are still housed in the monastery, together with the icon of the Holy Theotokos and these relics are said to perform miracles for those who have the faith and pray in front of them. One of the nuns, Sister Kassiani attests to how one Englishmen with eye cancer came to the monastery and started to pray in front of the icon of Meletios. She gave him some Holy Oil from the candili of Panagia (Mary's Candle) and instructed him to put the oil on his eyes each day. He went back to England and, to the surprise of his GP, his cancer was cured.

Another modern day story tells of an Archangelos man who gave a lift to a old clergyman on the road at Pilona, driving this stranger through to the crossroads at Lardos where the road leads up to the monastery. On a later visit to the monastery the man saw the icon of Meletios and realised who this stranger he had given a lift to really was, none other than Meletios himself.

References

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Track through the woods to Glystra

Gallery

Below are a selection of images taken from from the photo album for this walk. Feel free to browse through these or click on an image to view a larger version in the Gallery.